The land where blows el Zonda

Ajourney through the wind kingdom of the Andes

There exists a place, in Argentina, on the eastern side of the mighty cordillera of the Andes, where a dry wind blows, a strong, warm, tumultuous wind that the natives called the Zonda. When the time came for Horacio Pagani to baptise the car he had dedicated to his friend Juan Manuel Fangio, the manufacturer chose the name ‘Zonda’. Seduced by its sound and the beauty of the land the wind sweeps over, he decided it was perfect, while the C12 part takes its letter from Cristina, Pagani’s wife, and the 12 from the number of cylinders in the Mercedes Benz-AMG engine. After the car’s presentation at the Geneva International Motor Show in March 1999, the meaning of the namearoused considerable interest. The explanation given, that the “Zonda is a powerful, warm wind that blows over the Argentinean Andes” failed to satisfy the public’s curiosity. So we felt it was time to provide a closer look at this wind and the meaning it holds for its people. Not forgetting, of course, to describe the beauty of the lands it touches, the fruit it helps to yield... and the legend of the wind that the natives have passed down since distant times.

The wind

The Zonda belongs to the group of winds that blow downstream from the mountains, like the Foehn in the Alps, the Chinook in the Rockies, South-Africa’s Berg wind and New Zealand’s Norwesterly. It blows from the province of Neuquén,in Argentinean Patagonia, to the town of Cochabamba, in near-by Bolivia, and it forms as a result of humid air rising off the Pacific Ocean at the Andean cordillera. When it descends, this cold air (which has by then lost all its dampness) gradually warms up. As it travels over the plains, it gathers up large clouds of dust, especially at the end of the summer. The Zonda is a scourge for its region, keeping the rain away, sending birds flying, and scattering livestock, while it knocks down trees and burns the buds on the plants. It is also known as Huayrapuca, or the “Witch’s Wind”, because of the negative effect it has on people’s moods: it produces sleepiness, anxiety, a suffocating feeling, depression, allergies and high blood pressure.

Generous nature

Although the Zonda embraces a huge area of land, the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja and Catamarca actually live in symbiosis with the wind, as well – to a lesser extent - as Neuquén, San Luis, Salta and Jujuy.

Nature has been lavish with her gifts in this region: abundant mountains that rise up from the Aconcagua massif, a climbers’ paradise; eternally snow-capped peaks for ski lovers; an extinct volcano stands reminder to the region’s remote past; enchanting deserts create otherworldly landscapes; lush green valleys; crystal lakes, powerful waterfalls and streams, ideal for water sports and fishing; a wide open, cloudless blue sky, for daydreaming during unforgettable nights. Flocks of “camélidos” complete a view scattered with almond, walnut, fig and olive trees, and grapevines that produce some of the best wines in the world. Friendly, warm-hearted locals are always the first to welcome tourists.

The land where the Zonda blows offers visitors endless attractions, so let’s have a look at a few of them: the Inca Bridge, built in the cordillera during the ninth century, with its yellowish hues and its ancient natural hot water baths; the Atuel Canyon, with its rare rock carvings produced by a painstaking partnership of wind and rain, many of which look like real things; Mount Tupungato, a former volcano, with its flattenedout cones and its wide glacial expanses, or Villavicencio’s spirals, otherwise known as the “wheel of the year” because of their 365 curves, a round route track that provides an unforgettable view of the cordillera. All this can be found in the province of Mendoza. In the province of San Juan, sites worthy of mention include the Cuesta del Vento dam, a vast mirror of crystalline turquoise water in a unique mountain setting, and the El Leoncito astronomical observatory, where the transparency of the atmosphere guarantees good observation conditions all year round.

The region is known for three quite similar national parks: the Sierra de las Quijadas (in the province of San Luis), the Ischigualasto (San Juan province) and the Talampaya (La Rioja province; not to mention its major cities: Mendoza, with its over a million inhabitants, tree-lined streets, the continuous murmur of the canals that assuage the population’s thirst and its sunny days that are ideal for long walks and outdoor living; San Juan, a modern city rebuilt following an earthquake in 1944, boasts wide, magnificent avenues; it is an enchanting oasis ringed by chains of mountain; and finally La Rioja, with its history (it houses two of Argentina’s oldest buildings) and its distinctly Spanish ways.

A foreshortened view of the Ischigualasto National Park, in the province of San Juan

History, fun and sports

The land swept by the Zonda is brimming with places where visitors can really get the most out of nature. History fanatics can follow the same horseback trail that general José de San Martín took for the historical Andes crossing on his mission to Chile and Peru. Why not visit the various rural tourism centres, to taste local foods made the artisan way? Or the famous Malargüe goats, an exported product bearing the town’s own mark of origin?

There are so many opportunities to get back to nature, and put yourself to the test in a range of hobbies. The list is long, but just to get you started, there’s paragliding, hang gliding, touring, trekking, riding, mountain biking, skiing, rafting, diving, canoeing and fishing, in all their variations. But the region’s biggest attraction is, beyond a shadow of doubt, skiing. The province of Mendoza boasts the Valle de Las Leñas, one of the world’s pros’ favourite destinations, with 33 slopes covering 65 km, and Los Penitentes, with 28 slopes covering 25 km. Both centres offer modern ski lift systems, comfortable hotels and all the services today’s tourist expects

Natural baths at Inca Bridge, in the province of Mendoza.

Land of good sun and good wine

The product that brings the most pride to the local population is, undoubtedly, its wine, which has turned the region into an essential destination for wine tourism. Its continental climate, untouched by maritime influences, and its highlands, which stand at from 700 to 1250 m a.s.l., have played a major role in the area’s prosperity, helping to put Mendoza provinces San Juan and Rioja on the world wine map.

Mendoza is Argentina’s main wine-producing province, yielding approximately 80% of the country’s total output. Among the reds, it is famed for its Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Barbera d’Asti and Pinot Noir; while its whites include Chenin, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillón, Sauvignon Blanc, Torrontés and Riesling. San Juan, long-time producer of Cereza, Moscatel de Alejandría, Torrontés Riojano and Sanjuanino, recently turned its attention to different varieties, and now successfully grows Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Chardonnay, among others. San Juan is also Argetina’s most important raisin and table grape producer, while La Rioja, on the other hand, whose production is somewhat smaller, has made a name for itself through its Torrontés Riojano, which has won various awards in specialist wine competitions.

The entire region offers a host of wine-oriented tourist attractions, including tours ofvineyards and wineries, and - of course - tastings. Mendoza, also known as “the land of good sun and good wine", organizes the Grape Harvest Festival, the annual wine harvest festival. With no other like it in the world, the event has being running for 70 years. From the beginning of the year onwards, the various towns celebrate the wine harvest with music, dancing, traditional ceremonies, holidays and the election of the local queens, as well as culinary tasting sessions, which bring tourists flocking in their thousands. The celebrations culminate in the Blessing of the Fruits, the Via Blanca de la Reinas parade, the Carrusel Grape Harvest parade, and the Main Grape Harvest Festival, held at the amphitheatre in the Gral San Martin park, where the National Grape Harvest Queen is elected. It is a hugely popular event and the atmospheric blend of traditional culinary delights, the aromas of fine wine, the resonance of folk music and the poetry recitals reaches its climax in the revelation of the identity of the new queen. Every year hundreds of beautiful women competed for the Grape Harvest Queen’s sceptre, all originating from the land where the Zonda has reigned for thousand of years.

Hugo Racca

The legend of the Zonda wind*

Long ago, an Indio named Huampi ruled over a number of tribes in the valleys of the Calcaquí region (northern Argentina). Esteemed and feared, he was distinguished by his valour and his skilful handling of weapons. A tireless hunter, Huampi would not spare even the tiniest of creatures and his actions were gradually decimating the region’s fauna. Such an unjust situation could not continue.

One day, on his return from hunting, Pachamama, the goddess of Mother Earth, appeared to him, shrouded in light, and said: “Huampi, villainous child of the earth! Do you intend to kill all the animals? Even the wood birds fear you and fall silent when you pass”. Pachamama continued: “Do you think, proud Indio, that we have created them so you can kill them? Go on killing them and you shall lack meat, milk and skins. If you do not leave either the vicuna or the guanaco in peace, where shall you find the soft and gentle wool with which to weave your cloak? If you do not spare the llamas, which animal shall bear you to far-off places? If you continue to kill the birds, you shall no longer have feathers with which to adorn you! You have been ambitious, selfish and ungrateful. You do not appreciate, nor respect that which Mother Earth gives you. You have no heart. You do not deserve to be forgiven. Instead, you shall bepunished for your wickedness. Your time shall come... Shrouded in light, Pachamama disappeared,...Paralysed by fear, Huampi believed he had awakened from a nightmare. He tried to calm himself, but Pachamama’s reprimands and threat continued to plague him.

Leaning against a tree, lost in thought, he heard a whistling sound. “What could it be? A presage of Pachamama’s punishment?" He felt his face lashed and burnt by the wind. Trees were tossed; leaves, flowers and fruits whirled around him and the whistling grew shriller. It was indeed the promised punishment, the fury of Mother Earth was upon him and his domains, in the form of a terrifying hurricane... They say that, since that day, as the Zonda wind screeches over the Andean valleys, it has an almost-human voice.